In New York, personal space is always at a premium. Until very recently, Greenpoint was an oasis for those who need their breathing room: conveniently adjacent to the non-stop party that is Williamsburg, Greenpoint was a less crowded, less expensive hood for those who prefer to have their fun and then go home. Unfortunately, it seems the hipsters have gotten hip, and with each passing year, there’s a little less room in Greenpoint.
If you’re willing to go a bit out of your way, however, there are a few places that seem to have escaped the influx.
It’s brunch on a Sunday, and Brooklyn Label and the Park Luncheonette have lines out the door. But there’s another option that always has seating. Head North on Manhattan Ave. all the way to Huron St. and have juevos rancheros or a breakfast burrito at chef-to-stalk Cody Utzman’s Mexican street food restaurant, Papacitos. Delicious brunch for under $10 (and great veg options), friendly service, and – now that it’s summer – the long picnic tables in the breezy garden can accommodate all your friends at once.
After brunch, it’s time to do some shopping. Don’t feel like strolling Franklin Ave’s boutiques with the Vans-shod masses? Just steps from Papacitos, check out The Thing, an old school thrift store that’s as packed with stuff as Bburg’s Junk, but not packed with patrons – possibly because the place is a dusty mess and the owners are cranky. But the basement is a sight to behold, crammed with thousands upon thousands of used LPs. If you’ve got money left, head South on Manhattan Ave. Weirdly, Fred Flare chose to open their first ever brick-and-mortar store at the random out-of-the-way corner of Meserole and Leonard. The store’s adorable, and the merch is cuter. But best of all, you and your pals will likely have the run of the place.
Shopping not enough cardio to work off your brunch, but don’t want to crowd into the Sunday afternoon Greenpoint YMCA sweat-fest? Try Otom Gym, a block away on Calyer. Cheaper than the Y (a recent summer special is around $40/month) and less crowded, but you will have to ignore the exaggerated grunts of the weightlifting, musclebound men who make up the majority of the clientele. For a peaceful (and free) workout, you can always go for a run in the park. If it’s nice out, McCarren Park is sure to be carpeted in sunbathers, but shady, smaller Monsignor McGolrick Park, East of McGuinness between Huron and Driggs is always quiet. There are more trees in McGolrick, a small dog run and a playground, as well as a sheltered pavilion and several interesting sculptures — check out the weird squirrel statutes on either side of the West gate, that appear ready to pounce.
Just West of McGorlick on Nassau is Brooklyn Standard Deli, Cody Utzman’s brand new organic mini-mart. In an area saturated with Polish delis, Utzman’s store is a Godsend for foodies, with locally sourced and organic goods at corner store prices, and sandwiches and prepared meals, plus Stumptown coffee, homebaked goods and a juicebar. The focus here is on vegan and vegetarian fare (though meat options are also available). All this, and more elbow room than The Garden.
But if you’re craving Polish (and in Greenpoint, who wouldn’t be?), but Old Poland and Lomzynianka are packed, check out Antek Restaurant on Norman, across from the library. This bare bones Polish cafeteria has no English postings alongside the Polish menu, but here’s a hint: there are English take-out menus on the counter. The dishes are huge, tasty and dirt cheap – like a hearty white borscht with a mound of mashed potatoes for $2.50 – and there’s plenty of seating where you can chill and watch Polish TV.
For dessert, skip the perennially packed Peter Pan donuts, and head North on Manhattan to the charming Cafe Riviera, where mammoth, flaky croissants and fruit-and-cheese-filled danish the size of hubcaps are on offer for only $1.50, and cafe au lait in a pretty glass mug is $.50. The seating is limited, the line is often long, but most people get their treats to go. If you do snag one of the marble-topped cafe tables, it’s a pleasant place to watch the foot traffic down Manhattan.
When it comes time to hit the Greenpoint night life, stay well clear of the drunken scenesters at Enid’s and Matchless. Rather, head up North on Manhattan to The Hideaway, a hunting-lodge-inspired bar with yummy cocktails and bar food, nightly specials and episodes of Planet Earth on the overhead TVs. The Hideaway is cozy, but there’s always an open table, and the patrons are more into conversing with each other than striking poses at the bar.
Don’t stay out too late, though – if you’re like everyone else in Brooklyn, you’ve got a long day of freelance work ahead of you! When it comes time to pay the bills, there are a number of places to squat in Greenpoint. Cafe Grumpy and Greenpoint Coffee House are well-known haunts for laptop-toters, but try Eat on Meserole at Leonard. This tiny coffeeshop-slash-record store has great ambiance and no customers. Be forewarned: they’ve recently gotten rid of the wireless and ask that you not bring laptops – but hey, going offline can really increase your productivity! Plus, unlike Grumpy, Eat has a delicious full menu. By your third visit, you’ll be besties with the staff.
To get to Greenpoint, take the G to Greenpoint or Nassau. (Or skip the crowded platform and lengthy wait at Courthouse Square, and stroll over the Pulaski Bridge instead!)
